The Must-Have Facts Before Buying Diamonds

Article updated: 27 June 2024

Buying a diamond ring (or any piece of jewellery) is a big decision and an expensive endeavour. A wedding ring, for example, will be on show on the person's finger, day in and day out for a lifetime, so it is extremely important that you make the right choice. Your hard earned money should be well spent, and we want you to make fully informed choices, so we have created a list of tips and key information you should know before buying a diamond ring.

Tips & Suggestions

  • Pick your Jeweller carefully: research is paramount. Speak to friends and family. Think really hard about the personal nature of what you are doing here. It is a really good idea to be able to have some face-time with your chosen jeweller. Chemistry, as you probably know if you are about to get married, can create magic. John Franich Jewellers has many reviews on our site and on Google that you can see as testimonial of others experiences.

  • Confirm the ring size: This is key, sometimes people get into details and forget about the basics ending up in getting a ring that doesn’t fit. The easiest way is to use a piece of thin thread and wrap it around the intended finger

  • TIP: If it's a surprise, then do it whilst the person is sleeping.

  • Always check the diamond in different lighting: Jewellery stores usually have it in best lighting, it may be a good idea to take it outside - with permission and an escort of course - to see how it looks in natural light.

  • Ask for grading certificates for the centre stone and the side stones if you opt for them. Also, check the hallmarks on the band. The certificate also assures authenticity and most of them can be verified online. Should you want to insure your ring, you will need this information and the receipt of purchase to do so, so keep this information safe.

  • Don’t break the bank: set your budget before you walk into a store. If you haven’t set a budget, chances are that you will spend more than what you have. Browsing our website will give you a good idea of what you can afford, just use the "filter button" top right to start from the right place.

 

What you need to know about diamonds: Learn about the 4 Cs: Carat, Cut, Colour, Clarity.

Carat, cut, and clarity are three fundamental attributes that define a diamond's overall quality, appearance, and value.

  1. Carat is a measure of a diamond's weight. One carat equals 200 milligrams. Larger diamonds are rarer and generally more expensive. However, carat weight alone doesn't determine a diamond's visual size or beauty, as other factors like cut play a crucial role.
  2. Cut refers to how well a diamond has been shaped and faceted. The cut affects a diamond's brilliance and sparkle by determining how light is reflected within the stone. The Gemological Institute of America (GIA) grades cut quality from Excellent to Poor. A well-cut diamond will appear more brilliant and can look larger than a poorly cut diamond of the same carat weight.
  3. Clarity evaluates the presence of internal inclusions and external blemishes or flaws. The GIA clarity scale ranges from Flawless (no inclusions or blemishes visible under 10x magnification) to Included (inclusions and/or blemishes visible to the naked eye). Clarity impacts a diamond's appearance and value, with fewer imperfections generally being more desirable.
  4. Colour grading is an essential aspect of assessing a diamond's quality and value. The colour of a diamond is graded based on its absence of colour, with the GIA colour scale being the most widely used system.

Everything you need to know about clarity:

Diamond clarity refers to the presence of internal inclusions and external blemishes within a diamond. These imperfections can affect the diamond’s appearance and value. The Gemological Institute of America (GIA) developed a clarity scale to grade diamonds based on their clarity. Here’s a detailed overview of the diamond clarity ratings:

The GIA Clarity Scale

The GIA clarity scale ranges from Flawless (FL) to Included (I), with several subgrades in between. The clarity grades are determined by the number, size, relief, nature, and position of inclusions and blemishes visible under 10x magnification.

1. Flawless (FL)

Description: No inclusions or blemishes are visible under 10x magnification.
Rarity: Extremely rare and highly valued.

2. Internally Flawless (IF)

Description: No inclusions and only minor blemishes visible under 10x magnification.
Rarity: Very rare and valuable.

3. Very, Very Slightly Included (VVS1 and VVS2)

VVS1: Inclusions are very difficult to see under 10x magnification.
VVS2: Inclusions are slightly easier to see than VVS1 but still very difficult to detect.
Rarity: Rare and high-quality diamonds.

4. Very Slightly Included (VS1 and VS2)

VS1: Inclusions are difficult to see under 10x magnification.
VS2: Inclusions are easier to see than VS1 but still considered minor.
Rarity: High-quality diamonds that offer a good balance between quality and value.

5. Slightly Included (SI1 and SI2)

SI1: Inclusions are noticeable under 10x magnification but usually not visible to the naked eye.
SI2: Inclusions are more noticeable under 10x magnification and may be visible to the naked eye.
Rarity: More common and offer a good value, especially for those on a budget.

6. Included (I1, I2, and I3)


I1: Inclusions are obvious under 10x magnification and may affect transparency and brilliance.
I2: Inclusions are more pronounced than I1 and can affect transparency and brilliance.
I3: Inclusions are prominent and can significantly impact transparency and brilliance.
Rarity: Common and typically the least expensive, but inclusions are visible to the naked eye and can affect the diamond's appearance and durability.

Factors Affecting Clarity

1. Size of Inclusions: Larger inclusions are more noticeable and can have a greater impact on the diamond's appearance.
2. Number of Inclusions: A higher number of inclusions generally lowers the clarity grade.
3. Position of Inclusions:** Inclusions located near the center of the diamond or on the table are more noticeable than those near the edges.
4. Nature of Inclusions: The type and impact of the inclusion (e.g., cloud, feather, crystal) also influence the clarity grade.
5. Relief: The contrast of the inclusions compared to the diamond itself affects how visible they are.

Choosing the Right Clarity

When selecting a diamond, consider:

  • Personal Preference: Some individuals may prioritise clarity and prefer diamonds with higher grades (FL, IF, VVS), while others may find VS or SI diamonds offer a good balance between quality and value.
  • Visibility of Inclusions: Many inclusions in VS and SI diamonds are not visible to the naked eye, making these diamonds appear similar to higher-clarity diamonds at a lower cost.
  • Budget: Higher clarity diamonds are more expensive. Balancing clarity with other factors such as cut, colour, and carat weight can help you find the best diamond within your budget.


Understanding diamond clarity ratings helps in making an informed decision when purchasing a diamond. The GIA clarity scale provides a reliable standard for assessing diamond clarity, ensuring you choose a diamond that meets your aesthetic preferences and financial criteria.

A detailed overview of diamond colour grading:

GIA Colour Scale

The GIA colour scale ranges from D to Z, with D being the highest grade (completely colourless) and Z indicating a noticeable presence of colour. Here's a breakdown of the grades:

D-F Colourless

  • D - Absolutely Colourless. The highest colour grade and extremely rare.
  • E - Colourless. Only minute traces of colour detectable by an expert gemologist.
  • F - Colourless. Slight color detectable by an expert gemologist, but still considered colorless to the naked eye.


G-J Near Colourless

  • G - Near-Colourless. A faint trace of coloor detectable only when compared to higher colour grades.
  • H - Near-colourless. Slightly more noticeable colour than G but still high quality.
  • I - Near-Colourless. Noticeable colour when compared to higher colour grades.
  • J - Near-Colourless. Slightly detectable colour; can still be a good value choice.


K-M Faint Colour

K - Faint colour. Noticeable colour, usually visible to the naked eye.
L - Faint colour. More noticeable colour than K.
M - Faint colour. More noticeable colour than L.


N-R Very Light Colour

Diamonds in this range have a noticeable light yellow or brown tint.


S-Z Light Colour

Light colour. Diamonds in this range have an obvious tint of yellow or brown.

Colour and the Impact on Value

Colourless to Near-Colourless Diamonds (D-J):

These diamonds are highly sought after, with D-F being the most desirable and expensive. Near-colourless diamonds (G-J) offer a good balance between quality and value, with any colour being less noticeable when set in jewellery, especially white gold or platinum.

Faint to Light Colour Diamonds (K-Z): 

These diamonds are less expensive but can still be beautiful, particularly when well-cut. They can be set in yellow gold to mask the faint colour.

I have also heard about "Fluorescence" in diamonds, what does this mean?

Fluorescence is a phenomenon where some diamonds emit a faint glow when exposed to ultraviolet (UV) light. The GIA grades fluorescence as None, Faint, Medium, Strong, or Very Strong. In most cases, fluorescence has little impact on a diamond's appearance under normal lighting conditions, but strong fluorescence can sometimes make a diamond appear hazy or oily.

Choosing the Right Color

When selecting a diamond, consider:

  • Personal Preference: Some people prefer the icy look of a D-F diamond, while others find that diamonds in the G-J range offer the best value.
  • Setting Metal: Diamonds with slight color can appear more colorless when set in yellow or rose gold.
  • Budget: Balancing colour with other factors such as cut, clarity, and carat can help find the best diamond within your budget.

Understanding diamond colour grading helps in making an informed decision when purchasing a diamond. The GIA color scale provides a reliable standard for assessing diamond color, ensuring you choose a diamond that meets your aesthetic and financial criteria.

In summary, carat determines size, cut influences sparkle, clarity affects purity and colour can affect the value of the stone. Understanding these differences helps in selecting a diamond that balances these attributes according to personal preferences and budget.

Understand the different diamond shapes and cuts:

If you are buying for your better half, getting an insight of what they may like is going to help.

Diamond cuts refer to the specific shape and facet arrangement of a diamond. Each cut has unique characteristics and appeals to different aesthetic preferences. These are the most popular diamond cuts available:

Round Brilliant Cut

The Round Brilliant Cut is the most popular and classic diamond cut. It has 58 facets, maximizing the diamond's brilliance and fire. This cut is known for its superior light performance and is a favorite for engagement rings.

Princess Cut

The Princess Cut is a square or rectangular shape with pointed corners and numerous facets. It is known for its brilliance and contemporary look. This cut is versatile and looks stunning in various settings.

Emerald Cut

The Emerald Cut is rectangular with step-like facets and a large, open table. It has a distinctive, elegant look with less sparkle but more emphasis on clarity. The cut’s long lines and reflective facets create a sophisticated appearance.

Asscher Cut

Similar to the Emerald Cut, the Asscher Cut is square with step facets and a high crown. It has a unique "X" pattern when viewed from above and is known for its vintage appeal and clarity emphasis.

Marquise Cut

The Marquise Cut is an elongated shape with pointed ends, resembling a boat. It creates the illusion of a larger diamond and can make fingers appear longer and slimmer. This cut is often chosen for its dramatic and elegant look.

Oval Cut

The Oval Cut is an elongated version of the Round Brilliant Cut. It has a similar brilliance and fire but with a unique, elongated shape. This cut is popular for its flattering appearance on the hand and its ability to appear larger than its carat weight.

Radiant Cut

The Radiant Cut combines the elegance of the Emerald Cut with the brilliance of the Round Cut. It is a rectangular or square shape with trimmed corners and numerous facets, offering exceptional sparkle and versatility in design.

Pear Cut

The Pear Cut, also known as the teardrop cut, is a combination of the round and marquise shapes, with one rounded end and one pointed end. It is elegant and distinctive, often chosen for its unique and flattering silhouette.

Heart Cut

The Heart Cut is a romantic and unique shape, ideal for sentimental occasions. It requires a skilled cutter to ensure symmetry and brilliance. This cut is less common but cherished for its symbolism and distinctiveness.Cushion Cut

Cushion Cut

The Cushion Cut is a square or rectangular shape with rounded corners and large facets. It resembles a pillow and combines a vintage feel with a modern appeal. This cut offers excellent brilliance and is known for its versatility in various settings.

Baguette Cut

The Baguette Cut is a rectangular, step-cut shape often used as accent stones. It has fewer facets and less brilliance but provides a clean and elegant look. Baguette cuts are popular in vintage and Art Deco designs.

Each diamond cut has its unique characteristics, and the choice depends on personal preferences, the desired style, and the specific attributes of the diamond.

Equally as important is the choice of precious metal for your stones - this is both a personal choice of taste and also value.

Some people can be allergic to certain metals - so be sure to know this information.

For many people there is no substitute for traditional 18k or 24k Yellow Gold Yellow Gold. For others, depending on your lifestyle and personal style, it can feel too "flash" or just doesn't seem to blend as well with their other accessories and style. 

Platinum, White Gold, Titanium, Silver and Tantalum are all great choices for a more subtle ring colouration that goes with all styles and accessories. Just be mindful that White Gold will need to be rhodium plated and polished every few years to maintain its lustre - especially if the ring is worn daily.

Slightly newer in market is Rose Gold, an excellent option, but also dependent on whether you use coloured stones which may not look their best against certain metal colours.

Carbon Fibre is also an option through the Dora range and gives the wearer a black option, which is fashionable. Tantalum can also be made a black colour.

What about the diamond stone setting?

This decision often comes down to the stone, the cut and the style of the ring. The most common settings are a 4 or a 6 prong settings, but there are many more choices available that John Franich can talk you through once you have agreed the stone, the style and the design.

Choosing the right setting for a diamond is crucial as it enhances the diamond's appearance and protects it. Here are the most popular types of diamond settings:

The Prong Setting
The prong setting, also known as a claw setting, is one of the most common and classic settings. It features metal prongs that hold the diamond securely in place. Typically, four or six prongs are used. This setting elevates the diamond, allowing maximum light to enter and enhancing its brilliance.

Tiffany Setting
A variation of the prong setting, the Tiffany setting was designed by Tiffany & Co. and is specifically for round brilliant diamonds. It features six prongs that elevate the diamond above the band, maximizing light reflection and creating a stunning sparkle.

The Bezel Setting
In a bezel setting, the diamond is surrounded by a thin metal rim that encircles its perimeter. This setting offers excellent protection for the diamond and a sleek, modern look. It's ideal for active individuals as it keeps the diamond secure and less prone to damage.

Channel Setting
The channel setting places diamonds side by side in a channel groove, with no metal separating them. This setting is commonly used for engagement rings and wedding bands. It provides a smooth and continuous look, protecting the diamonds' edges while allowing light to pass through.

Pavé Setting (pay-vey)
In a pavé setting, small diamonds are set closely together with minimal metal visible, creating a surface of continuous sparkle. Tiny metal beads or prongs hold the diamonds in place. This setting adds a dazzling effect to the ring and is often used for accent stones on the band.

Halo Setting
The halo setting features a central diamond surrounded by a circle (or halo) of smaller diamonds. This design enhances the overall sparkle and makes the center diamond appear larger. Halo settings can be combined with various center stone cuts and create a vintage or glamorous look.

Tension Setting
The tension setting uses the metal band’s pressure to hold the diamond in place. The diamond appears to be floating between the two sides of the shank. This setting offers a modern and unique appearance, with the diamond exposed to light from all angles, maximizing its brilliance.

Bar Setting
Similar to the channel setting, the bar setting secures diamonds between vertical metal bars. Each diamond is held by two bars on either side, exposing the sides of the diamonds. This setting is often used for eternity bands and offers a stylish and contemporary look.

Flush Setting
In a flush setting, the diamond is set into a hole in the band so that it sits flush with the surface of the metal. This setting provides excellent protection for the diamond and a sleek, understated appearance. It's ideal for those who prefer a low-profile ring.

Cluster Setting
The cluster setting groups multiple smaller diamonds closely together to create the illusion of a larger diamond. This setting is cost-effective and offers a unique, eye-catching design. Cluster settings can feature various shapes and arrangements for a distinctive look.

TIP: side stones can make a considerable contribution to the aesthetics and price. They also enable an opportunity to bring some colour into the ring. Alternatively, pick the centre stone as a coloured gemstone and use smaller diamonds as beautiful accents to your centre stone.

Vintage Setting
Vintage settings draw inspiration from historical designs and often feature intricate details such as milgrain, filigree, and engraving. These settings can incorporate elements from various eras, such as Art Deco, Edwardian, or Victorian, and offer a timeless and romantic appeal.

Three-Stone Setting
The three-stone setting, also known as a trilogy setting, features three diamonds set side by side. The center diamond is usually larger and flanked by two smaller diamonds. This setting symbolizes the past, present, and future and is a popular choice for engagement rings.

Each diamond setting has its own unique characteristics and aesthetic appeal. The choice of setting depends on personal style, the desired level of diamond security, and the overall look you want to achieve.

Where does John Franich Source its Diamonds From?

We are extremely proud of the fact that we are certified Antwerp Diamond Brokers. This allows us to make regular diamond buying trips to Antwerp, Belgium, the diamond capital of the world where 80% of the world’s diamonds are traded. This allows us to act as your “personal broker” and buy diamonds with significant savings on retail prices.

Because of the enormous choice of top-quality diamonds available in Antwerp, we can easily locate the perfect diamond for you in the exact size, shape, quality, and price that you wish. And we can deliver it to you at a truly substantial saving.

This special service is available to you as John Franich Jewellers is a member of the Nationwide Jewellers buying group, which is associated with the worlds largest Jewellery Buying Group with over 400 members. This makes it possible for us to deal directly with Antwerp’s leading diamond cutters and save you the hefty importer and distributor costs and any risks associated with attempting to source your own diamonds.

We hope you found this information useful. Ultimately we encourage customers to Book an Appointment with John Franich at the store, where we can take you through all the options and give you an indication of pricing.

From there we follow our Custom Made Process which you can read more about here.


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