The Art & History of Chain Making

Gold chains have captivated humanity for millennia, evolving from simple fasteners to powerful symbols of identity, style, and freedom. At John Franich Jewellers, we understand the enduring appeal of these versatile pieces and are proud to present our curated Chain Collection, reflecting global trends and timeless craftsmanship.

A Legacy Woven in Gold: From Ancient Emblems to Modern Statements

The journey of the gold chain is a long and fascinating one, stretching from the Sumerians to the present day. Historically, chains were utilitarian, used for fastening clothing or holding keys. However, they quickly transformed into objects of beauty and status. In Renaissance Italy, for example, heavy gold chains were prized emblems of power, often bestowed by rulers upon their courtiers.

Beyond mere adornment, chains have long been imbued with deep meaning, symbolising power, liberation, and connection. In her latest book, Chains: Stories, Fashions, and Techniques of the Most Beloved Jewels, jewellery scholar Alba Cappellieri notes, the chain is "the most versatile, most loved, most explored object" and intimately connected to our bodies. 

The 1970s marked a significant shift, as the chain became a powerful symbol of personal freedom and resilience, particularly as women fought for their rights and independence. This powerful social statement continues to resonate today, with chains placed "at the heart of social awareness, connecting women to ongoing liberation movements".

The Resurgence of Chains: Fluidity, Freedom, and Fresh Takes

Today, chains are experiencing a significant revival in both high fashion and jewellery. This renewed enthusiasm is driven by innovative designs that challenge conventional rigidity, introducing new lightness and aesthetic strength. Brands are reinterpreting classic forms, incorporating diverse materials, and creating pieces that are remarkably flexible and adaptable.

Modern interpretations embrace color, playfulness, and personalisation. Chains are no longer just decorative; they are dynamic symbols of individual style and identity. This evolution means they are no longer gendered, with younger generations embracing bolder styles and men from all walks of life increasingly incorporating chains into their everyday repertoire.

How Do I Know The Right Length for a Chain?

Chains come in varying lengths, precious metals and styles. The length of chains has changed over time along with fashions. Over the past few years there has been a trend to very long chains hanging down towards your waist area. Chokers however, are making a comeback. And most in fashion at the moment is to wear a combinations of lengths and styles together at the same time to create a layered look.

How Many Types of Chain Styles Are There?

1. Oblong Trace Chain - This chain features elongated oval links that alternate with smaller round links. This is a popular chain to use for small pendants, especially crosses.
2. Box Link Chains - A strong format for a chain, often used for high value pendants in fine jewellery. The chain has a neat uniform appearance.
3. Paperlink Chains - Characterised by their flat, oval or rounded rectangular links, paperlink chains often resemble the shape of paper clips, offering a minimalist aesthetic that is both modern and versatile for layering. Chunkier pendants can be attached to these chains, but they are usually worn on their own.
4. Foxtail Chains -  These chains appear to carry a number of interlocking threads of metal with twisted links. The style of the foxtail chain create a smoother, more solid looking, but flexible appearance that enhances shine and movement. These chains create a great statement to compliment a pendant or they can be worn on their own and come in a variety of thicknesses, but usually shorter lengths. 
5. Curb Chains - Popular for women's and men's necklaces in varying thicknesses. This style has a classic round shape for each link that is also slightly flattened. The necklace folds over and twists when you wear it creating a great look - especially as part of a layered collection, worn with other styles.
6. Franco Chains - This style consists of tightly woven, V-shaped links that give the chain a flatter appearance that sits onto your chest. The robust and durable structure make it an ideal chain style for larger and thicker men's chains.
7. Cuban Link Chains - The ultimate "celebrity-rapper" accessory. The Cuban chain also lies flat against the chest and creates a chunky, classic style, that's both luxurious and assertive in its presence.
8. Belchers - Comprised of round or oval links that are typically uniform in size, belcher chains offer a timeless and sturdy design that can easily complement various types of pendants and charms, or stand out on their own.  The ability add multiple charms make them the best choice for charm bracelets and charm necklace. Best seen in the Thomas Sabo range.

Which Type of Metal is Best for Chains?

In general, a 9k gold is preferable to 18k gold, which is softer and could break easily if tugged hard. Sterling silver is an excellent and long lasting choice. White gold is an option for the silver look, however with a lot of use and skin contact, you may need to rhodium plate your chain a few times over its lifespan.

What's The Most Expensive Chain Created

Rapper and actor 2 Chainz is said to have worn one of the heaviest and thickest gold chains ever made in 2018, when he showcased a massive chain on a YouTube video showcasing the world's "Most Expensive Shi#t."  The classic 'cuban-link', a much loved style by celebrity rappers, is said to have weighed 36 kgs.

Image: Rapper 2Chainz sourced from That Grape Juice.net

Discover Your Perfect Link at John Franich Jewellers

At John Franich Jewellers, we celebrate this rich heritage and modern versatility within our Chain Collection. We offer a diverse selection of gold chains, perfect for making a statement, layering, or simply adding a touch of classic elegance to your look.

Our collection includes popular styles such as:

• Franco Chains: Available in various widths and karats, including the 9k Yellow Gold 1.1mm Franco Chain for $899.00, the 9k Yellow Gold 1.5mm Franco Chain for $1,295.00 or $1,400.00, and the 9k Yellow Gold 2mm Franco Chain in 45cm and 60cm lengths for $1,800.00 and $4,000.00 respectively.

• Square Paperlink Chains: For a distinctive, contemporary feel, explore the 9k B/Tne 4.6mm Square Paperlink Chain 50cm for $3,000.00.

• Foxtail Chains: Offering a unique texture, like the 9k Yellow Gold 2mm D/C Foxtail Chain 70cm for $2,200.00.

We invite you to explore our Chain Collection online or visit us at our store in the Northwest Shopping Centre in Westgate, Auckland, New Zealand, to discover the perfect chain that speaks to you. Our team is ready to help you find a piece that not only enhances your style but also connects you to a timeless legacy of beauty and meaning.

Customers often have chains in their collection that are broken. We will happily fix and repair any broken chains.

This blog post was inspired by this article and references some of the content from this link: https://rapaport.com/jewelry/italian-jewelers-fresh-takes-on-gold-chains-are-links-in-a-long-heritage/